Thailand diary

SURIN

BANGKOK

CHANG MAI

CHIANG RAI

Thursday 3 Jan

Travelled by train to Manchester Airport. It was bitterly cold, with snow everywhere. Queued for three hours to get our flight tickets. Flew from Manchester at 9pm to Dubai Airport.

Friday 4 Jan

Arrived at Dubai Airport around 8am local time, and had just enough time to make our connection. Flew from Dubai Airport around 9am local time to Bangkok Airport and arrived in Bangkok around 6pm local time where Rob & Kate were waiting to greet us. We all travelled on to Surin in a people carrier with Kate’s cousin driving. Another 6 hours of travelling. Arrived at the Majestic hotel in Surin around midnight, where we would be staying for the next four nights.

Saturday 5 Jan

We all went to Ban Samit, Kate’s home village to meet her family. Had a walk around the village, enjoyed a meal, and did some Thai dancing.

Kate stayed in the village, and Rob had dinner with us in the evening at the Majestic hotel.

Sunday 6 Jan

Rob & Kate’s wedding day. We got up at 5.30am to get ready for the trip to Ban Samit. Rob’s mate Ollie joined us. We travelled in a pick-up truck with Rob & Ollie in the back. Rob changed into a white suit for the wedding ceremony, with Katy, Ollie and me all dressed in suitable Thai attire. The whole village turned out with gifts of Bananas, Papaya, and meats, including a pig’s head. We all paraded to Kate’s home for the ceremony, with music blaring, drums beating, people singing, chickens flying, and Thai dancing going on all around us. The ceremony took place in front of the entire village, under a marquee at Kate’s home and was presided over by a local priest. After the vows were exchanged, the villagers gave food and money to the newlyweds, and strings were tied around their wrists for good luck. Katy & I also had many strings tied around our wrists too. The happy couple then went to their room to eat the food, while we all crowded around to watch. After the formalities were over the party began and loud music played, while everyone danced.

Later in the day we all returned to the Majestic hotel in Surin for the reception. Once again the whole village came to celebrate. The room was decked out beautifully with a three-tier cake taking pride of place. We all enjoyed a ten course Thai feast, and a free bar. A very pleasant Thai duo entertained us throughout the evening. There were also lots of villagers who were keen to get up and sing, and we presented every singer with flowers taken from the table displays. There were speeches, and candles were ceremoniously lit by Rob & Kate, then Rob cut the cake with a huge sword. After the meal we went through to the karaoke room where we enjoyed more beer and Thai whisky, while everyone, including me, had a go at singing.

Rob arranged for sixteen rooms in the hotel to be available, so that the family could stay overnight.

Monday 7 Jan

We all went to Phanom Rung historical park, along with most of the villagers. Phanom Rung temple stands on the top of an inactive volcano, Phanom Rung means “big mountain” and is approached by way of a grand stone avenue over 150m in length and bordered by small pillars toped with lotus bud finials.

The impressive sandstone and laterite remains have been restored to make Phanom Rung the most impressive and important Khymer temple in Thailand, on a par with Angkor Wat in Cambodia.

At night we had dinner at the Majestic hotel.

Tuesday 8 Jan

We walked around Surin in the morning exploring the town. We checked out of the Majestic hotel, and Katy and I along with Rob and Kate travelled in a taxi to Bangkok, a journey of around 280 miles, which took over 6 hours. We all booked into the Pinnacle Lumpinee hotel and spa, close to Lumphini Park. In the evening we all walked over to the nearby Suan Lum night bazaar, which is devoted entirely to Thai arts and crafts, with an emphasis on quality rather than tourist kitsch. I bought a pair of swimming shorts.

We had a meal at an Italian restaurant, in the night bazaar where we sat outside watching the shoppers hurrying by, and generally soaking up the atmosphere of the busy night market.

Wednesday 9 Jan

 

Kate had to sort out her visa, so Katy, Rob and I took a taxi to Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace. Highly theatrical in appearance, these buildings are frequented by Thai pilgrims as well as sightseers. The psychedelic tones and sheer variety of shimmering shapes are breathtaking, and there is a bewildering array of stupas, mosaics, glittering roof tiles, fabulous images, statues, pillars and pediments that make up this amazing place.

The temple of Wat Phra Kaew is Thailand’s major Buddhist site, and is home to the venerated Emerald Buddha, which is suitably guarded by a series of garishly painted demons. The size of the tiny image of the Emerald Buddha bears no relation to the enormous reverence in which it is held. It is credited with miraculous powers, and was discovered in the 15^th century and kept in Laos for 200 years. Kate joined us at this point and showed us how to show respect to the Emerald Buddha, with flowers, incense, candles and water.

Had a full body massage at the Pinnacle hotel in the afternoon, followed by a sauna, and an open-air rooftop jacuzzi.

At night we all went to Siam Niramit, the must-see show of Thailand. This world-class spectacular show shows the journey to the enchanted kingdom of Siam. The stage of Siam Niramit is certified as the highest in the world, and this spectacular performance of Thailand’s art and cultural heritage, featured amazing state of the art special effects, such as a waterfall and a river with boats on the enormous stage. There were elephants in the audience, goats and chickens on the stage, and elegant aerial dancers. After the show we were able to wander around a Thai village. This was an incredible show, which really was truly unforgettable.

Thursday 10 Jan

Rob and Kate were busy sorting out a new passport and visa for Kate, so Katy and I had the day to ourselves. After breakfast we walked over to Lumphini Park, a vast expanse of green where the sound of traffic is rarely intrusive, a place to seek some respite from urban blues and enjoy some moments of peace and quiet. Lumphini is a relaxing place, dotted with picnic tables, pavilions and shaded areas. We saw Mynah birds and giant lizards, and the statue of King Rama VI, the king who owned the parkland before donating it to the city in 1925.

After several failed attempts to hail a taxi we took the metro to the railway station, where we were able to hire a taxi to take us to the National Museum, Thailand’s foremost museum, full of treasures from prehistoric times onward. Enjoyed a great lunch at the museum café, them strolled round the museum looking at rare Buddha images, rock art, spectacular funeral chariots and many more exciting exhibits.

Got a taxi back to the hotel and had a sauna and a rooftop jacuzzi with Rob.

In the evening we all went to the Patpong area of Bangkok, where we ate in a trendy fusion restaurant called “Eat Me”. I had a tiger prawn dish, which arrived topped with a prawn the size of a lobster! After dinner we walked around Patpong, the red-light area of Bangkok, which also has a thriving night market selling fake designer watches, branded clothes, designer bags and the like. We played pool in one of the many bars, and went to “Dream Boys” where we saw a live gay sex show!

Friday 11 Jan

Kate’s parents arrived in Bangkok in the morning, and all six of us went to Vimanmek Palace, which is the largest golden teak palace in the world. Graceful and airy, this well-crafted house was designed on a grand scale, amid landscaped gardens, and conveys a calm and cultured feel that would have pleased its royal patron. We had a guided tour, which took us through 30 of the 80 rooms in the mansion, including the bathroom which was very modern for it’s time and was the first to have a shower, and was innovative for being inside and not outside the house.

In the afternoon, Kate, Rob and I had a sauna, sat in the steam room, and enjoyed the rooftop jacuzzi back at the hotel.

All six of us had dinner at the hotel, and then Kate, Rob, Katy and I went to Patpong for a few drinks. Kate was not feeling too well, so we all returned to the hotel early.

Saturday 12 Jan

All six of us checked out of the Pinnacle hotel and took a couple of taxis to Don Muang airport in Bangkok. We flew to Chiang Mai airport, a flight of just over an hour. Chiang Mai is northern Thailand’s regional capital and is dubbed “Rose of the North” because of it’s natural beauty and the profusion of flowers that drapes it’s ancient walls and lines most of it’s moat and river bridges. We all checked into the Galare guesthouse by the Ping River.

In the evening we walked to the celebrated night bazaar, Chiang Mai’s top tourist draw, and had a few beers. We played pool and watched live English Premiership football on TV. We also saw some Thai boxing. 

Sunday 13 Jan

All six of us travelled in a songthaew (a cross between a bus and a shared taxi), into Chiang Mai and were dropped off at the city walls where we set out to explore the city on foot. Chiang Mai’s old city is a maze of narrow streets and brick paved lanes leading to ancient wats (temples), quiet monastery gardens, hidden bars, restaurants and boutiques. Most of the major attractions are to be found within the city’s walls and moats. We looked in several temples, most notably Wat Chedi Luang, where the bulky remains of an enormous stupa tower above the park-like monastery grounds in the exact centre of the old city. The leafy temple grounds contain a 35ft long reclining 15^th –century Buddha, his face contemplating the chedi, and a handsome 19^th-century assembly hall. Among the neat little chapels that dot the grounds of the temple is one containing the 13^th-century city pillar and another housing a jolly 15^th-century golden Buddha, his hands clasping his ample belly and an expression of sheer bliss on his broad face. Whilst at the temple we were encouraged to chat with English-speaking monks sitting beneath the trees in the compound, which gave us an amazing insight into their cloistered lives, Buddhism and Thai culture.

In the evening Rob found a very pleasant Thai restaurant for the four of us to eat. Kate’s parent’s stayed behind at the guesthouse. Later on we went to O’Malley’s Irish bar, where we played pool with various strangers, including an Australian girl, and a very loud American man. After that we stumbled into a bar called Guitar Man, where we watched a very good Thai singer/guitarist, followed by an incredible Thai blues band.

Monday 14 Jan

Rob not feeling too well today, so Katy and I had the day to ourselves. We went on a Scorpion –tailed river cruise on the Ping River. This guided trip sailed along the Ping River, right past the Galare guesthouse, and we learned about life a hundred years ago along the riverbanks. The cruise ended at the Scorpion-tailed boat village, where we were served traditional Thai desserts. From there we were taken to the food and flower markets, where we were able to roam around on our own, and enjoy the sights and sounds of this incredibly busy area. We bought a souvenir green Buddha in the city, and we both treated ourselves to a Thai foot massage.

Rob was feeling much better at night, so the four of us went for a meal at the Riverside bar and restaurant, which we had spotted from the boat earlier in the day. Chiang Mai’s “tuppies” (Thai yuppies) pack this sprawling riverside bar and restaurant every night. They love its mix of Thai and Western music, played by live bands. We ate at an outside table on the riverbank.

Tuesday 15 Jan

Rob chartered a 10-seater car for a two-day trip to the northern borders of Thailand. Our first stop was at a market where I bought a Thai silk shirt. We also saw the hot springs where water comes bubbling out of the ground at a temperature of 89 degrees centigrade, and you can hard boil an egg in just 11 minutes. Our next stop was an incredible Buddhist temple called wat rong khun, near to Chiang Rai, which is different from any other temple in Thailand as it is completely white in colour. The whiteness represents Lord Buddha’s purity and wisdom, which shines brightly all over the world and the universe. The temple was only completed in 2008 and was ten years in construction. All the paintings in the assembly hall have golden tones, and I bought a print to bring home as a souvenir.

After visiting another Wat Chedi Luang we then arrived at Sop Ruak, an undistinguished frontier town on the banks of the Mekong River. Sop Ruak claims to be the gateway to Thailand’s fabled golden triangle, a large region covering border areas of Thailand, Myanmar (Burma), and Laos or to the point where the frontiers meet at the confluence of the Mekong and Ruak rivers.
We hired a couple of motorised narrow boats and sped down the Mekong River, until we docked at Laos. Upon disembarking we were greeted by begging children, women selling silks, men selling snake whisky, and we also saw a black bear.

Back on the boat we were taken down the river until we could see Myanmar (Burma), then we turned around and came back down the river where we were dropped off at the huge golden Buddha statue. This amazing sight was simply breathtaking as the big Buddha, is sitting in an equally enormous boat. After a refreshing drink of coconut juice we were on our way again, this time to Mae Sai, a dusty frontier town and the northernmost point of Thailand, which connects with a short bridge to neighbouring Myanmar (Burma). After taking pictures of the bridge and the border crossing, (we were not allowed into Myanmar), we visited a jade factory. We eventually arrived in Chiang Rai where we stayed the night at the Moon and Sun hotel. Chiang Rai is Thailand’s northernmost city. In the evening we went to Cabbages and Condoms for dinner. A quirky restaurant, with great food. After dinner we went to the Tee Pee bar, where we sat on rugs on the floor, drinking Mekong whisky, and watching Woodstock on the TV.

Wednesday 16 Jan

 After breakfast in the Moon and Sun hotel, the six of us set off on our travels again. A rugged drive up a steep track led us to the home village of the Karen longnecks, a hillside tribe of long-necked women. These are the ladies, and even girls, who wear a stack of rings around their necks. At one time the solid metal coils were thought to be protective against tiger attacks. Katy and I both bought a silk scarf from one of the Karen longnecks.

We then journeyed on to Doi Mae Salong, a remote mountain community in the far north of Thailand, which was settled some 50 years ago by a Nationalist Army regiment fleeing from Mao Tse Tung’s communist forces in China’s civil war. As a result the town has a distinctly Chinese character. After a delightful cup of green tea, we carried on our travels. Next stop was Doi Tung royal villa, the Princess Mother’s villa, which sits near the summit of the Doi Tung mountain, overlooking coffee plantations, nurseries and workshops where hill-tribe farmers are being weaned away from opium cultivation, by producing traditional textiles, carpets, and ceramics. The villa itself was where the King’s mother lived and worked while in residence in Chiang Rai. The legend of Doi Tung tells the story of King Lawacahkalaj coming down from heaven on a silver ladder. His purpose was to protect and uphold the Buddhist religion. The mountain upon which he appeared became known as Doi Tung, which translates as “Mountain of the holy banner”. We also strolled around the impressively beautiful Mae Fah Luang gardens. After a long drive we eventually arrived back at the Galare guesthouse in Chiang Mai. After a rest we went out on the town and ended up playing pool with a young English couple, in the Cosy Corner bar, where an elephant with its handler passed by.

Thursday 17 Jan

Rob chartered a red songthaew for the day for the six of us and we set off to Doi Suthep’s mountaintop temple, which is one of northern Thailand’s most revered places of pilgrimage. Doi Suthep itself is one of Chiang Mai’s “guardian” mountains, some 5,000ft high, and it is said that an elephant carrying a Buddha relic was led up the mountain, and on the ridge where it first stopped a chedi was built to contain the sacred object. A community of monks later built a temple there. The broad leafy terrace of the temple complex sits like a shelf below the summit of Doi Suthep and commands a spectacular view of Chiang Mai below. The extensive temple ensemble of chapels, assembly halls, chedis, Buddha images and frescoed cloisters took shape over the past seven centuries. We took the cable car from the parking area to the temple, but walked down the 306 steps on the way back, where we saw the NAGA balustrade, and some children dressed in beautiful tradition dress. We bought a couple of silk prints to bring home, and were hounded by ladies trying to sell us more all the way back to the songthaew.

We then travelled on to the National Park where Kate hired a rug for us to sit on near a magical waterfall. Katy and I sat on the rug trying desperately not to slide into the water, whilst Kate and Rob went exploring close up to the cascading waters.

The songthaew then took us on a shopping tour where we visited lots of enormous stores, one of which was the biggest jewellery store in the world. Another was Shinawatra Thai Silk, where we were given a welcoming cold drink upon arrival. Katy, needless to say, bought lots of Thai silk.

After another hectic day, we spent our last night in Thailand at a fine restaurant, Antique House. The suitably named Antique House built in 1870, is one of Chiang Mai’s few buildings under an official protection order. The main dining area is a relatively modern extension, but the setting is authentic Lanna. We sat outside listening a wonderful Thai singer, playing guitar and singing lots of James Taylor songs. Magic. We even bought some flowers from a beggar boy who came to the table. After dinner we went to the rooftop bar, where we climbed five flights of stairs, to sit on rugs on the roof of this trendy bar. We later went on to Saks bar, and the gloriously named Ba Ba Bo Bo bar.

Friday 18 Jan

 Our last day in Thailand so we went to the “Let’s Relax” spa for a one-hour body scrub, followed by a relaxing one-hour massage. Then back to the guesthouse to finish packing, ready for our journey home. First trip was a short taxi ride to Chiang Mai airport, where we flew back to Don Muang airport in Bangkok. Here we said our goodbyes to Rob and Kate and her parents. Katy and I then took a taxi across Bangkok to Suvarnabhumi airport where we enjoyed a pleasant meal in a smart airport restaurant, while we waited for our flight to Dubai.

Saturday 19 Jan

We flew out of Suvarnabhumi airport around 1.30am and landed in Dubai airport around 5am local time. We had to wait in Dubai airport or around nine and a half hours. We passed the time looking round the shops, and snoozing. We were given a complimentary breakfast by the airline, which passed another hour. We eventually flew out of Dubai around 2.30pm and landed in Manchester airport at around 6pm in UK time. Needless to say, it was raining! We caught a direct train to Scarborough, and arrived home around midnight. A total of around 39 hours for the return journey from door to door.